More than just Bossa Nova, Brazilian craft breweries deliver
on 14/12/10 at 12:03 pmBeer
Going back to the three breweries that impressed me enough at this past summer’s Mondial de la Bière to make me want to travel all the way to São Paulo and beyond, I remain a fan of Cervejaria Colorado, Falke and Wäls. The first, Colorado, is lead by the man most people I spoke with identify as the co-father of Brazilian craft brewing – alongside Cássio Piccolo of FrangÓ – Marcelo Rocha. Of his brewery’s four mainstay brews, I very much enjoy the Indica IPA, fermented with rapadura cane sugar to a soft apple fruitiness and balanced with a firm but not overwhelming hoppy bitterness, qualities that lend it very much to pairing with Brazilian cuisine. The Brazilian coffee-flavoured Demoiselle Porter is also a very fine ale, with a well-integrated coffee appeal and roundly roasty body.
Falke’s Marco Falcone achieves his greatest success – of what I had the chance to try, at least – with his abbey-style Monasterium, with ample spice and raisin on the nose and more spice blended with notes of apricot, dried pear and orange in the body, along with some light vanilla and lingering warmth on the finish. Not to be discounted, though, is the same brewery’s Ouro Preto, a rich and pumpernickel-ish schwarzbier.
Wäls has some good things going on in their abbey-inspired ales, too, but suffers from over-pasteurization in the bottle, a not entirely uncommon trait of Brazilian craft beers, I’m afraid. Their Tripel is fresh and floral and fruity on tap and darker and flatter of flavour in the bottle, for example.”