Bartenders wage war against vodka
on 31/08/11 at 12:15 pmBooze News
Perhaps it’s a hangover from the sickly sweet Cosmopolitans of the Sex and the City era, but many bar chefs and restaurateurs are waging an outright war on the classic Eastern European spirit.
Damon Clements, a chef-owner of the new Toronto restaurant Ortolan, says vodka isn’t a good match with food, so he doesn’t offer it in any pre-dinner cocktails.
“We’re trying to have things that are genuine aperitifs that open the palette, or digestifs,” he says. “And vodka and gin are more of a let’s-go-to-the-bar-and-get-loaded drink.”
Toronto restaurant owner and cocktail expert Jen Agg lobbed a public salvo against the spirit in a recent blog item called “Vodka is stupid.” Ms. Agg, the architect of handmade, lovingly infused house cocktails at the Black Hoof and the Cocktail Bar (formerly Hoof Café), went on to also call vodka “dumb,” mostly because, she says, it is designed to taste like nothing.
“A vodka martini ought to be renamed ‘I like being drunk,’ ” she wrote, “because that is its only purpose.”