Ask for Chablis, it should come from Chablis
on 02/11/11 at 10:53 amWine
Do you care where your wine comes from? If it says “Napa” on the label, or “Champagne,” do you expect it to be produced in those regions? Or are you satisfied that if the wine is big and red or has bubbles or is fortified, it can come from wherever as long as it’s cheap?
I’m old enough to remember ordering a glass of Chablis and watching the bartender press a button on the dispenser hose to fill a glass with acidic, nasty white wine. It was no doubt bulk wine from California and most likely not made with chardonnay, the grape of Chablis in northern Burgundy. It took me a few years to overcome that experience and try the real thing. Once I did, I was hooked.
Same with champagne; oh, those headaches from the cheap knockoffs. And sherry; the tiny Jerez region in Spain produces exquisite wines using a technique honed over centuries, only to see large alcohol conglomerates produce cheap imitation “sherry” by taking inferior wine and oxidizing it.
The Center for Wine Origins, based here in Washington, was founded in 2005 as a joint venture of champagne and port producers to protect their trademarks. The group buys advertising to promote awareness of regional wine nomenclature, and it publicizes government efforts to fight mislabled wine.