Champagne’s Meunier no second-rate grape
on 25/10/11 at 12:09 pmWine
In the right sites and with careful management, the grape can be used to make fine and ageworthy wines according to Michael Edwards, writing in the October edition of the drinks business.
He points out that Krug 1981 – “one of the greatest Champagnes of the 20th century” – had as much as 19% of Pinot Meunier in the blend, and recalls tasting “a superb” 1985 Meunier at De Telmont, last spring.
Analysing the grape’s characteristics, Edwards suggests Pinot Meunier may be closer to Chardonnay in its taste and that the red grape would be better understood if it’s called Meunier, without the Pinot prefix.
Site selection is of course key to Meunier’s quality, and Edwards stresses the need for the best plots in the Marne Valley, picking out Damery, Châtillon-sur-Marne and Sainte Gemme – the latter used by Krug.