Dom Pérignon chief debunks acidity “myth”
on 01/02/12 at 6:56 pmWine
Dom Pérignon cellar master Richard Geoffroy described the connection between acidity and age-worthiness in wine as a “myth” during a tasting of the Champagne house’s new release from the notoriously warm 2003 vintage.
Commenting on the decision by many of his peers not to release a vintage in 2003, Geoffroy remarked: “For too many Champenois this one character alone, low acidity, was enough to write off the vintage.”
However, he continued: “There is no relationship [between acidity and ageing potential] within a given bracket.”
Instead, Geoffroy recalled that his decision to begin picking on 25 August – the earliest harvest in Champagne since 1822 – “was driven by the fruit intensity and the spectrum of fruit characters.”
As for monitoring acidity levels during the crucial harvest period, Geoffroy insisted: “I don’t want that parameter in the picture; it’s all about the flavour.”