Fat white wines for colder days

on 25/09/11 at 6:26 am

Wine

The time for crisp, refreshing summer whites and rosés is over for another year (don’t all cry at once), but that doesn’t mean you have to give up white wine altogether.

Most wine promotions at this time of year tend to focus on autumn reds, but after months of talking about crisp, refreshing whites and rosés, I’m ready to switch to fat whites. Fat? Can a wine be fat? Well, just as easily as it can be crisp, I reckon.

What I’m talking about are the rich, lush whites with more weight and less acidity than their skittish summer counterparts. I’m thinking of stone fruits rather than citrus; grilled or roast fruits rather than fresh; butter, vanilla and toast – all those warming flavours you didn’t fancy just a few weeks back.

Some grape varieties lend themselves better to this plumper style than others – chardonnay most obviously, though a lot of that is due to oak. The same is true of viognier and its fellow Rhône and Languedoc cohorts, roussanne, marsanne and grenache blanc or gris. The kind you find in Sainsbury‘s new Taste the Difference Languedoc White (£7.99; 13.5% abv), a heavyweight blend that would drink well with roast pork belly or butternut squash.

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