Shunning Fruit-Bomb Glitz, Old Napa Wineries Are Crafting Classic Reds
on 27/09/10 at 8:30 amWine
The reputation and glamour of Napa Valley is too often about razzle-dazzle rather than good wine, with well-financed estates producing fleshy, high-alcohol fruit bombs to win medals. Yet there are still wineries quietly making austere, traditional wines that deserve wider recognition.
Two cases in point are veterans in the valley, Concannon and Clos du Val, which turn out some of the most impressive, well-balanced red wines in California. Their quality is based on long knowledge of the soil and terroir and sense enough to know that fads in wine come and go, while hard work and experience endure.